Day 24: Astorga –> Foncebadón
Day 25: Foncebadón –> Ponferrada
Day 26: Ponferrada –> Villafranca del Bierzo
If I’m honest, I’m finding it harder and harder to write about my time. Most days are the same, we just pass through different towns. We get up, we walk, we stop for breakfast, we walk, we walk, we walk. I’ve got my Camino family, so I spend most of my time with them.
A few days ago, we left Astorga. It was such a cute town, I felt a little sad to leave it. We started the climb up to the highest point of the Camino, which we reached the following day. I had read that the climb up to Rabanal was dangerous, but for me, it didn’t seem that bad.
After a long stop in Rabanal, we carried on for another six kilometers. Most of it was uphill. I felt a surge of power, so I climbed ahead. At one point, I realized I look down a lot. You know, in case there are rocks or uneven surfaces. I want to be aware. I decided to look up. Wow. It was absolutely incredible. We had left the bland Meseta region and were entering the mountains again. Trees stretched on for miles and miles. It was green and beautiful.
Originally, I was nervous about suggesting a stop in Foncebadón. There are only 30 people living there, which apparently goes down to 4 in the winter. The town (if you can even call it that) is basically made for pilgrims. However, it gave some of the most stunning views over the landscape.
We got so lucky. We paid a fair price at our albergue and had a room with just four beds and a huge bathroom, a luxury on the Camino. For dinner, we popped into the pizzeria next door, which is run by Italians who do it for fun and ship the ingredients from Italy. They make the pizzas fresh and everything is homemade.
The next day, we left as the sun was rising. It was an incredible sight to see. We had left a little later than we would have liked, but it was still good. The first stop was the Cruz de Ferro, which is the highest point on the Camino. It’s tradition to carry a rock with you during the Camino and drop it off at the base of the cross, leaving your sins behind.
Then, we started to go downhill, but not too much. There was, basically a hut, with one man living there. He provides the stamp for the credentials and also sells food and drinks for the hungry pilgrims. I don’t recommend the bathroom though. It is literally a hole in the floor.
Our major descent began from there. I felt nervous going down the steep hills full of rocks. As we reached El Acebo, I started to run down because it just felt like the safest thing to do. In El Acebo, we stopped at a café with a man who spoke perfect English. Turns out, he’s an American from Houston who has been living in Spain for ten years now.
The descent only got worse and more steep as we continued on. I powered on, eager to get away from the rocks. We stopped for a little in Molinaseca, a cute, little, medieval town. So many of these towns are too cute.
Finally, in the afternoon, we arrived in Ponferrada, completely exhausted. Our albergue was akin to a bomb shelter, but fortunately, we met some good people. There aren’t many people in their 20s on the Camino, so it’s always good to meet some new people around your age.
Today, once again, we left too late. When will we learn our lesson? Nothing much happened today. We just walked. I think the most exciting thing was when someone forgot their walking poles. There were several villages along the way and even a food truck in the middle of the woods.
By the time we arrived in Villafranca, we all felt completely drained. Everyone was in a bad mood. To make matters worse, we got here just late enough to still get a bed, but in the attic, which, of course, is boiling. We feel a bit better now, but we are eager to get out on the trail again.