Andalucía: typical Spain. Tapas, hot weather, flamenco, palm trees. That’s what most people think of when they hear Spain, but really, those are more typical of the South. In three years of living in Spain, I had never been down there, making up so many excuses about needing time or the trains being too expensive. Finally, I decided to stop making excuses and just go to Sevilla.
I arrived in Sevilla around 4:30. It was like a ghost town. Where wast his lively and spectacular city that I had heard so much about? Well, it turns out that 5 PM is the hottest part of the day, and in June, temperatures reach around 100ºF! So if you have plans for Sevilla, try going in a season that isn’t summer.
Plaza de España
Many cities in Spain have a “Plaza de España”, Madrid and Barcelona included. But none quite compare to Sevilla’s. This plaza was built in 1929 for the Ibero-American Exposition to celebrate Spain and its former colonies. How do I even describe it?
It’s like a grand building, a complex of many individual buildings, with a wide-open plaza and water fountain smack in the center. Around the building are spaces devoted to each province of Spain, literally from A to Z. I walked around the inside to see the coat of arms for each province. In the plaza section, there are little alcoves that are dedicated to each province. It was too hot for me, so I just found Tarragona and left.
The best parts of day to visit are in the morning before it gets too hot or at night when the fountain puts on a shower. You may even get to see some free flamenco shows at any time of the day. The Plaza de España is definitely a must-see in Sevilla .. and it’s FREE!
The Alcázar
When I told someone I was going to see the Alcázar, they looked very confused. “What is that thing just outside of Madrid?” Alcázar derives its name from the Arabic word for “palace”. There are many “alcazars” across Spain. (I saw one in Zaragoza.) This Alcázar is Real: it’s the official residence of the Spanish royal family when they are in Sevilla.
The Alcázar may seem Moorish, but in fact, it was built by a Christian king, Pedro I. It’s built in the Mudéjar style. Think the Renaissance but for Moorish art. Although none of it was built by actual Moors, it combines Arabic and Christian writing and styles to create a lavish palace. It’s next to impossible to even begin to describe. The place is like a maze, each room connecting to a new room or passageway.
Must-Sees
My favorite room was the Hall of Ambassadors. It has a gorgeous ceiling that is sometimes referred to as the “half orange”. It has the lovely arched portales (sorry, no English word really fits), too. When I went on the tour of the Royal Apartments, I got to see the room from above. It offered a new and interesting perspective on the room. At the top, there are portraits of Spanish kings over the years, although none are recent.
You absolutely can’t miss the gardens. I was walking through the gardens at noon, and it actually felt cool. Try to get into the gardens around the top of the hour. There is an organ that plays through a water system dropping water on the keys every hour on the hour.
If you’re thinking, “Man, this place looks familiar.” Well, it is! The Alcázar was used for Game of Thrones as Dorne. Luckily, I didn’t see any Sand Snakes!
You can’t miss this! The Alcázar is right in the center of the town, just next to the cathedral. Make sure to reserve tickets in advance or you may be waiting in line for hours. Tickets are not at all expensive. They start at 11.50€, with the choice to add extras. I sprang for the Royal Apartments Tour myself. Be aware though. If you do the Royal Apartments Tour, the time on your ticket is when your tour STARTS, not when you need to enter the Alcázar.
Catedral de Sevilla
Someone asked me if the cathedral was worth the visit because they were “churched out”. I get it. It happens to me, too. What sets this cathedral apart from the others is that it’s the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, and the third largest cathedral in the world, only behind St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London.
There are two big highlights to this cathedral. One is the largest altarpiece ever created. It’s basically a large wall of gold and biblical scenes. I tried to take a picture of the whole thing, but that was impossible. The other big highlight is the tomb of Christopher Columbus. His remains traveled all over the world for centuries, but their final resting place is Sevilla. The tomb looks like a coffin that is being carried by four pallbearers that represent the four kingdoms of Spain.
Finally, don’t miss La Giralda. This tower is a former minaret from the days of Moorish rule. The tower is 34 flights, but don’t fret! There is only one flight of stairs. The rest of 33 levels of ramps. It’s much easier to walk up when they aren’t stairs. (Trust me, I think I would have passed out if they were stairs.) At the top, you are given a view over the entire city, including a great shot of the cathedral.
Eat Your Heart Out
It’s impossible to make a bad choice when it comes to food in Sevilla. Most restaurants offer a wide selection of tapas or “menús” (three to four course meals for a cheap price), or even both. Even around the cathedral, the choices are affordable and worth it. Remember, the Spanish eat later! The bars and restaurants were not full until about 10 PM.
Two dishes to try in Sevilla as solomillo al whisky, which is a cut of pork marinated in whiskey. Another thing to try is carrillada, or pork cheek. I’m not an adventurous eater, but the pork cheek was not weird at all. Be sure to accompany your meal with a nice caña or vino.
Flamenco, Olé!
I really wanted to see flamenco in Sevilla, but I didn’t want to be too guiri. I found a place that does it in a more authentic way. La Casa del Flamenco is an economical but still fantastic place to get your flamenco fix. It’s very close to the cathedral, too, so it’s perfect after a day of sightseeing. There are three shows each night: 7 PM, 8:30 PM, and 10 PM.
Inside, there is a stage surrounded by chairs. No food available during this show. There are two dancers, one guitarist, and one singer during the performance. First, the two dancers came out and performed a sevillana. After they finished, the guitarist had a solo. Then, the girl dancer came back out and danced solo so hard that she shook out her bobby pins and flowers. The dancers went back into a room, and the singer had his chance to shine. Finally, the guy dancer came out. He wore his hair wet so that water flew everywhere when he did his turns.
The show lasted about an hour and the tickets were only 18€ per person (a little less with a student discount). It’s an incredible, intimate setting that will for sure leave you satisfied.
What are you waiting for?
Sevilla is a cheap, beautiful, and interesting city. There is so much to see from the Plaza de Toros (8€ ticket for a 40 minute tour that is quite good, even if you don’t like bullfighting) to La Triana, considered the birthplace of flamenco. You can do water sports along the Guadalquivir River and eat like a king for a peasant’s price. Don’t be like me. Go to Sevilla as soon as you can!
