Day 4
Pamplona –> Puente la Reina (23.1 km/14 miles)
My day started off a little different today. Instead of setting off early, I decided to go to the Plaza de Toros to see the Running with the Bulls.
For €5, I was given a ticket to enter the historic bullring. Bands were playing, people were singing and dancing, the atmosphere was incredible. It sure didn’t feel like 7 AM.
At 8 AM, the firecracker was launched and the bulls were released from their gate. On huge TVs in the arena, we watched as people ran into walls and fell down as the bulls raced through the streets of Pamplona. The entire event only takes about three minutes. As the time ticks by, people begin streaming into the arena in the sand area.
The bulls ran in through one gate and exited out another. Their job was done for now. People were congregated in the middle of the arena. Some people had jumped over the walls, but the brave stupid people stayed. Now, they release heifers into the ring. This part made me sad because they only acted that way because they were scared and provoked, but the heifers upended people and lifted them up onto their backsides. I was a little bummed because Josh Norman made news by jumping over a heifer yesterday, but he wasn’t there today.
The event was entertaining and a cultural experience for sure. I think I prefer Pamplona when it’s not overtaken by a sea of white and red.
At 9 AM, I picked up my bag from the hostel and started trekking. First, I had to get out of the city, dodging the people adoring their white clothes and red bandanas. I honestly have no idea how they do this for a week.
Soon enough, I was on the outskirts of Pamplona, making my way onto the small towns that were to come. Just days before, I was hiking past the Pyrenees. Now, I was walking through fields full of sunflowers.
Although I no longer had to deal with the mountains, there were quite a few steep hills. People on bicycles had to get off their bikes and walk them up the hills.
Finally, I reached the top of the Alto de Perdón. It was super windy, but it was somewhat of an accomplishment.
Now, it was time for the descent. Many people think the way down is easier than the way up, but the down way can be just as difficult. Here, there were rocks covering the ground, making it difficult and dangerous to walk down.
My feet were aching and my ankle was sore. I seemed to be passing through so many small villages, but not the one where I’d be staying for the night. At one point, I passed a boy with a lemonade stand. He sits outside his house doing it for donations for the pilgrims every day. He even has his own stamp! (I didn’t get one though because I don’t want to fill up my passport too quickly.)
Finally, I reached my albergues around 2:30. It’s not quite in the center of town, so I haven’t seen the bridge the town is named for. I did, however, run into some people I had met two days ago in Roncenvalles, so it was good to see some familiar faces. I also met a Danish guy who is walking with his family, including his 80 year old grandfather! They’re only walking five days of it though.
It’s hard to believe it’s only been four days of this. It’s certainly felt like so much longer. Tomorrow, onward to the next town. It’s a little larger than the one today, so hopefully I can enjoy myself.