Ireland was another one of those places that I had wanted to come to forever, but never had the right opportunity to do so. Plus, Ireland is drab and cold, right? Well, that changed when I kicked off 2019 by traveling to Dublin. Dublin was just my first stop on a whole Irish adventure, but it proved to be a good starting point.
Dublin is a big city, but it sure doesn’t feel like it. I never had to fight through crowds and get annoyed at people who don’t know how to walk on the street. Dublin is also full of history. I learned so much about their story, much of which I didn’t know before.
So now, here are some of my highlights that made Dublin so enjoyable.
Kilmainham Gaol
I was a little unsure at first if I would like it, but I had heard great recommendations online. I actually had to book my ticket more than a month out because it is a hot spot. Kilmainham Gaol is a little outside the city, about a mile or two. You could walk there, but there are also several buses that drop you off right in front of the jail.
The jail was first built back in 1796 and was open until just after Ireland gained their independence in 1924. It’s most famous for housing political prisoners during the years of the Irish rebellions. To visit the jail, you have to take a tour, but it is definitely worth it. The tour takes an hour and the guide tells you so much information.
Prisoners used to be hanged outside the front entrance as a warning to others. You could end up there for a simple crime, such as stealing bread. Even children spent several months there for their crimes. There was a special area set up outside for children to “play” (more like walk around in a circle for an hour).
You get to see the former cells of the famous political prisoners such as Michael Collins and Eamon de Valera, who later became Ireland’s first prime minister. It really is a beautiful jail – wait that doesn’t sound right to say. But truly, it was an excellent and very informative experience.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral
St. Patrick’s was my first stop in Dublin. I rushed from the airport to St. Patrick’s because I was on such a time crunch. I have to be honest though, after visiting St. Peter’s Cathedral the day before, it was a very different experience.
This cathedral is dedicated to St. Patrick and all thing’s Irish. There are memorials for Jonathan Swift (most noted for his work of Gulliver’s Travels), the Boyle family (whose son invented Boyle’s Law), and a war memorial. Now, I love stained glass, and there are some amazing pieces of stained glass that tell the story about St. Patrick.
It was a bit gloomy outside when I visited, so the cathedral was quite dark, but you can really sense the pride the people have for their cathedral. I was a bit lucky, though, because a choir was singing eveningsong while I was in there, making for a beautiful experience.
Guinness Storehouse
If I’m honest here, I don’t even like beer. The Guinness Storehouse, though, is a must-see in Dublin. I thoroughly enjoyed my experience here. Like the jail, this is a little bit outside of the city, but it is definitely walkable. As you approach, you can see the famous St. James’s Gate and a ton of Guinness logos everywhere.
The building is shaped like a pint glass, although it is a lot larger than a real pint glass! There are eight floors outlining the history of Guinness, as well as several floors for bars and restaurants. As it says in the commercials, Guinness is just 200-something years into a 9,000-year lease. (100% true)
The tour starts out on the bottom floor, talking about the ingredients used to make their beer. Then, the tour continues on, talking about Arthur Guinness and how he really grew the company out of nothing. They really highlight everything about their company, from the old barrels that were made to hold the beer to the ships created to transport their beer throughout the world.
I had my first taste of Guinness on the second floor. I was pushed into a room with a bunch of other people. We had to smell these sinks that gave off aromas of the ingredients used in the beer. Then, we were given tiny glasses, 1/8 the size of a pint, and told to go into another room. The guide told us not to sip the Guinness, but to drink about half of the glass (not applicable to normal sizes). He pointed out the different tastes we experience as we drink Guinness.
At the end of the tour, everyone over the age of 18 is allowed a free pint. They have many different places to get your Guinness. Some people went ahead and poured their own pint, while others sat down at a restaurant and ordered some food to go with their pint. I elected to go to the very top floor and see a view over the city. So did everyone else.
Like I said, I am not a beer drinker and Guinness is a thick and heavy beer. I ordered my pint, looked out over the city, and only drank 3/8 of my pint. I was defeated. Oh well, at least I had a great time!
The Book of Kells
I ordered my ticket to see the Book of Kells way in advanced. If you don’t, you’ll be waiting outside in a huge line. The Book of Kells is an illustrated edition of the four Gospels that dates back to the 800s. Since its discovery, the books have been rebound into four books. They really are elaborate illustrations, with amazing, curling script and colors.
First, there is the exhibition. It gives some information about the time it was created, how it made, and some of the imagery within it. Then, you are led into a room to get a glimpse. There are only a few pages shown at a time. Really, I only got to see four pages, two from two books. This room can get quite crowded, so you have to fight for a spot to see them.
My favorite part was not the Book of Kells itself, but rather the library you enter after seeing the exhibition. The Long Room is a library, which is part of Trinity, that is full of old books. It’s like stepping into Hogwarts or something. I overheard a guide talking about how she cleans the books, shelf by shelf, and mending them to maintain their condition. Man, I love a library.
Honorable Mention
Dublin Castle
If you have some extra time to kill, Dublin Castle is nice. It’s not super important to Ireland’s history, although it is where Ireland officially gained its independence. The castle was previously occupied by Vikings, and you can see some pretty rooms. I went on a guided tour here, as well, and the guide told us some good information.
The Queen of Tarts
There are two locations for the Queen of Tarts, but I was recommended the one on Cows Lane. I got there pretty early, before 9 AM, which was lucky because then it started to fill. You can choose from a selection of cakes and pies, as well as a full Irish breakfast. It was definitely a delicious way to start my day.
I’m kind of mad at myself for how long it took me to finally visit Ireland. Even though it took me a long time to get here, I will definitely be coming back!
