Auschwitz: An Educational Journey

If you saw my previous post, you would know that my main reason for visiting Krakow was to go to Auschwitz. Previously when I had been in Poland, I was in Warsaw. Getting to Krakow would have been a four-hour (or more) trip. I thought I would never have the opportunity to see this place full of horrific stories. When I had the opportunity to travel to Krakow for a long weekend, the first thing I did was plan to visit Auschwitz. 

Recently, I’ve been really interested in World War II. I find all the politics, war strategies, and oddly, the suffering of the people incredibly fascinating. If you don’t have the chance to visit Auschwitz, I recommend a series that aired on the BBC back in 2005 about the concentration camp and the people involved. I recently finished it on Netflix, so start your search there. (Auschwitz: The Nazis and the Final Solution). 

Auschwitz is located in the city of Oswiecim in southwest Poland. It turns out the Auschwitz is the German name of the city. To reach the city, the easiest way is to take a bus from the bus station, just next to the Krakow Glowny. The bus ticket costs 15 zloty (about €3-4) and takes 90 minutes. There is one line that picks up and drops off directly in front of the center.

The former concentration camp does not like to refer to itself as so. It is no longer a concentration camp, so it is referred to as a memorial museum. There are a few options you can take to visit the camp. One possibility is to register for a private tour through a third-party. In this case, you most likely won’t have to catch a bus for this. Another possibility, which I did, is to take a tour provided by the museum. It costs about €13. I know for sure there is availability in English and Polish, but I am not sure about other languages. Finally, if you want free time to walk around, you can get a free ticket to walk through the camp.

Like I said, I booked a ticket for a tour through the museum about two months out. I arrived an hour early but arriving 30 minutes before is fine if you come in the morning. When I left in the afternoon, the security line is a bit longer. Large backpacks are not allowed. I had a drawstring bag, and that was alright. Otherwise, you must check it into the left baggage.

As you walk into the former concentration camp, you walk under the famous “Arbeit Macht Frei”, or “Work Sets You Free”, sign. This was taken from the Dachau camp, but made more famous by Auschwitz. Most people are quite surprised when first walking into the camp because the buildings are made of brick. Originally, the camp was used for Polish political prisoners. Because of that, they were put into brick buildings, rather than the wooden barracks that feel more famous.

Even though they lived in brick buildings, it did not mean they had an easy life. Most of the prisoners died within months of arriving to the camp. There was even a prison within the prison. Block 11 is infamous for being a point of no return. Almost everyone who entered this block was murdered. It’s also the place where they first tested out the Zyklon-B that was used in the gas chambers in the later years. 

In this first section of the camp, you can walk into the different block and see different museum exhibitions. I was prepared for this because I had heard previously about what some of them included. One of the most harrowing is the room full of hair. There are glass cases all around the room that are full of hair taken from women. It’s only a portion of the hair taken from them, as much of the hair was also used to create wigs for German women. There are also showcases of the glasses, hair brushes, and other items confiscated when the prisoners arrived. The guide told us that they had no idea what awaited them. You can tell because they brought items like shoe polish and high heels. One part includes shoes taken from the prisoners, but this was closed for restoration.

Another chilling fact is that Rudolf Höss, who ran the camp, lived just next to the gas chambers with his family. While watching the Auschwitz series on Netflix, you can see just how weird it was. He was eventually captured after the war and hanged at special gallows made for him next to the gas chambers.

After walking through Auschwitz I, we took a bus over to Auschwitz-Birkenau. This was the second camp made after the Nazis decided to exterminate the Jews. It is about a mile or so away from the original camp. Here, you can see the typical wooden barracks that were packed with people, five to a bed. Birkenau is a more solemn area; talking should be limited. 

There isn’t much to see in this camp, but it’s still an astonishing thing to see. Here is where you can see the famous pictures of the train tracks and the gate: the Gate of Death. Most people who crossed the gate did not survive. The gas chambers were destroyed, but you can see their ruins. 

Auschwitz is not an easy place to visit. It’s heavy, but it’s something necessary. I was really surprised by the number of people carrying Israel flags and wearing yarmulkes, but I guess for them it’s something important to see how their people suffered. It’s important for everyone. After watching and reading a lot about World War II and what happened in all the different parts, I just will never understand how people could do this.

I leave this post with one thing that happened during my visit that really irritated me. As we were walking around Birkenau, two British women on my tour was having a conversation and laughing like they were at a restaurant. The guide told them to remember where they were, and they took offense. “I can’t believe we’ve been told off like children!” “He’s really giving us the authentic experience!” “I wish I hadn’t come!” 

I wish they hadn’t come either. If you can’t understand the gravity of the situation, then don’t come. Would you laugh at a cemetery? Would you go to any other war memorial and talk and laugh? This is the same. You are essentially standing on the site where a million people died. If you can’t handle that, then no, do not come. Yet, if you think it’s important to witness this tragic but educational site, please by all means, come and learn something new.