While planning my trip to Greece, I wanted to make a trip down to Crete. It’s the largest and most southern island in Greece. My dad had made a brief stop here as well during his time in the Navy, although not in Heraklion. Heraklion is named for Hercules, or Heracles in Greek. It’s not a very big city, or the most beautiful city, but it is a very interesting city to visit.
The Venetian Fort
The Venetians came to Crete in the 13thcentury and called it Candia. They had a lot of influence on this city of Heraklion. In the 16thcentury, they built the fortress, which to the Venetians was called Rocca a Mare. Then, when the Ottomans became the rulers, they called it Koules, which is the name it is usually called today.
This was probably my favorite place in the city. It just looked so beautiful, the last thing before the sea. On my first day, I was walking along the pier that extends past the fort and got stuck in a giant rainstorm. (It took a while for my clothes to dry.)
Inside the fort, you get a brief history of the fort. There are accounts of the building and some original remnants of the Venetian architecture. It also explains about some of the battles that it was involved in. Also, I saw some vases and other items that were excavated from sunken ships by Jacques Cousteau.
After walking through the bottom floor, take a trip to the top of fort. On a sunny day, there are the most beautiful views over the Mediterranean. The sea was green and blue. I could see the other mountains in Crete, including mountains with snow on them.
The full price admission is only €2, so it definitely worth a trip!
The Archaeological Museum of Heraklion
If you plan on going to Knossos, this is a great pairing to get a full appreciation of the site. You can buy a combined ticket for both the museum and Knossos that is valid for three days.
Inside the museum, there are tons of artifacts that date back to the Minoan civilization. I was amazed by the incredible designs on these artifacts. The vases were so beautiful! The jewelry was also incredible. I would wear those pieces today.
The museum takes you through the Minoan civilization through the Roman occupation of Crete as well. Most of the artifacts come from Knossos, but a few come from around the area as well.
One cool thing I learned was about bull jumping. People used to run at a charging bull, grab it horns, and flip over. I guess this was the ancient Minoan form of rodeo.
Historical Museum of Crete
Because the weather wasn’t ideal, I also checked out the Historical Museum of Crete. It was not nearly as big as the Archaeological museum, but it was informational, as well. This museum took over from the previous and told the story of Crete to the modern day.
One of my favorite parts of the museum showed the folk version of Crete. In this section, traditional costumes, instruments, and textiles were displayed, giving a picture of what Crete used to be like, and how some people still celebrate important events to this day.
Knossos
Of course, my trip to Heraklion was mostly to see the ancient city of Knossos. This was the seat of power for the Minoan civilization in 1800 BC. They built palaces, which were discovered in the early 20thcentury by the Englishman Arthur Evans. Further excavations were carried out after World War II.
Today, you can see the ruins of Knossos, along with some reconstructions. I think Knossos is helpful to visit with a guide, because I wasn’t always sure what I was looking at. A lot was also reconstructed to give you an idea of what it may have looked like all those years ago.
In total, I spent about an hour here, but if you really have an interest, you may spend more. You can take a taxi for about €11 from the city center, or you can catch a bus that takes about 25-30 minutes for €1.70.
Food
First off, I have to recommend a restaurant called Peskesi. It was located near the apartment I stayed in, and it intrigued me immediately. At this restaurant, they only serve Cretan food. They use modern recipes, as well as ancient recipes that were lost and found during excavations. Their service was impeccable. They give you a “welcome dip” made of yogurt and nuts (although you do have to pay for the bread). I also asked for recommendation from the waitress, and she did not disappoint. They also gift you a free glass of the local liquor with rose, and a free desert. On top of all that, the atmosphere is incredible. Definitely a must-eat place.
Another dish I greatly enjoyed was stifado. It is like a beef stew with onions. I don’t know how they made it, but there was some spice that made it just taste incredible.
Another place you have to try out is Phyllo Sophie’s. If you want to try a bugatsa, this is the place. I ordered one with cream and ice cream on top. It was divine. I ate it outside, facing the lion fountain, just enjoying the Mediterranean feeling.
If you have time and good weather …
I would have loved to go to a beach, but the weather was definitely all over the place. I had originally planned to go to Ammoudara Beach, but it just wasn’t warm enough. Sadly, I only had one day of warm weather. You can take a taxi or the bus to get there if you have the time to go.
Another thing I would have loved to do is a tour to the Gorge of Samaria. Unfortunately, it doesn’t open until May 1st, so I didn’t get to go. I hear it’s a pretty strenuous hike, but you also get to see some of the most amazing sights in Crete.
The City of Hercules
I chose Heraklion because of the mythology (ever heard of the Minotaur). It definitely was not what I was expecting from the city, but still, I enjoyed it. I miss the beach life. I enjoyed the quaintness and being able to easily navigate around the city. By the start of the second day, I could easily get around the city. Chania may be the prettier city, but Heraklion still has tons of history and a great location.
